The ideals brewed into Ichirin Itteki Daiginjo
From November 2024, a limited batch of 900 bottles of Ichirin Itteki 2021BY will go on sale. Why is Koshi no Kanbai releasing a new product now? We asked Kuramoto Tatsunari Ishimoto about the ideals poured into each bottle.
Evolution is the essence of Ishimoto Sake Brewery.
This sake embodies that.
Ichirin Itteki differs from other products in nature and appearance, but what kind of sake is it?
Some readers might recall, but we put out a product in 2017, a 110th Anniversary Ichirin Itteki. Ishimoto Sake Brewery celebrated its 110th anniversary in 2017, and to celebrate that we made a special junmai daiginjo filled with the gratitude of our long history of love from customers, and a truly careful attention to ingredients and process. It was limited to 3,900 bottles, and how well I remember writing the serial number on each label by hand. It was a sake that embodied our brewery, and in looking for a name that carried our ideals we decided on Ichirin Itteki based on our company philosophy, “A blossom of aesthetics in a single drop.” (Itteki ni, ichirin no bi ishiki).
What is the reason you decided to begin selling this new Ichirin Itteki?
The essence at the core of Ishimoto Sake Brewery is brewing good sake. Naturally, our commitment to quality means that we are a brewery that refuses mass production. Though we never intended it to happen, there was a time when Koshi no Kanbai had a reputation as hard to find, and retailers sold it at a premium. Flippers would sell it on without taking proper care of it, and it became difficult to get sake the way we wanted to deliver it into customer hands. After that experience, we hoped to become a more accessible, more trustworthy brand and now we don't only ship to special contract shops, but all kinds of retailers. However, now that we have become that much easier to find, it has become more difficult to convey the core essence of quality that is most important to us. Ichirin Itteki does come in at a price of 30,000 yen, but as an embodiment of our sake brewing, it was made with all the skill and abilities we possess. I think it will convey our values anew to consumers.
The last release of Ichirin Itteki was a limited edition to celebrate 110 years of brewing history, but this time the product will be an ongoing release.
That's right. There is a reason for that. Whether it be Chotokusen or white label, none of our sake is made the same way year-round. On deeper inspection, you will see that even as we strive to maintain a stable flavor all year, every year, we continue studying and striving to get better. This version of Ichirin Itteki has added brewer's alcohol, but it follows a different direction from the similarly added-alcohol Chotokusen even as we strove to make another top-quality sake. Even though that is the same ideal that drives Chotokusen, the attempt at making something different led to studying new techniques and contributed to the growth of our brewery. Even as we seek to preserve the tradition, we've inherited we continue to try new things. As the current head of this brewery, I see evolution as the essence of Ishimoto Sake Brewery, and Ichirin Itteki is an embodiment of that.
The label lists 2021BY (Brewery Year), but do you plan on continuing production from next year?
That is our intention. But I don't see any reason to seek to make it the same way. It could be junmai, or it could have an entirely different intent behind it. And of course, we can change the rice, the polishing ratio, and the price. It can always change as long as it follows through on considering the moment of customers' pleasure and surprise. The label lists the brewery year, so that consumers can enjoy the unique state of that year's sake, just as with wine or whisky. That is another ideal.
Music, art, and sake.
All touch the heart.
We've been speaking about the sake itself, but can you tell us how it differs from other Koshi no Kanbai products?
There are lots of differences, but to give one example, our other products are pasteurized immediately after pressing then stored in tanks to mature. There is another round of pasteurization just before bottling and shipping. Ichirin Itteki, though, is not stored in tanks but pasteurized, flash cooled, and then bottled before being matured for over a year.
Does that influence the flavor?
Bottling so soon after pressing preserves more of the aroma and flavor, and I think that results in a more characterful sake. I can't say which is better or worse, but it is fun to explore the differences.
The box containing Ichirin Itteki also has a special design.
The design is based on mizuhiki cords, so strongly associated with traditional gift envelops and wrapping paper, but something about them catches my imagination. Their red and white coloring and the way they allow an easy way to express feelings of gratitude has a certain Japanese-ness to it. There are a lot of factors, but somehow mizuhiki has become a natural part of our daily lives. Without saying too much, I think simply seeing our design is enough to allow people to understand our feelings.
The label is also slightly different from other products. It's like the letters are clear and not clear at the same time.
Yes, that was also intentional. The logo and product name area uses gold leaf. The design is a just a bit more complex. Naturally, it's important to print a product name clearly and directly, but just like with music and art, there are elements that are visible, others that are felt with the heart, and other large elements that you need to open all your senses to. I have the idea that “Important things seem clear but are hard to see.” The label reflects that.
Finally, please offer a message for those who pick up this product.
This is not just limited to Ichirin Itteki, but I think the most important thing is that everyone who sips our sake feels enriched and impressed. For example, everyone will have their own specific reaction, but it is important that sake serves as a trigger for some good experiences. Things like, “The flavor was good.” “I liked the aroma.” “Our guests enjoyed it.” “Grandpa was so happy that he gave the grandkids extra spending money.” If you have even the slightest feeling that, say, the aroma is too strong so it won't match food, or the balance is off, or something like that, it will be all you remember. You won't enjoy the moment, and you'll worry about recommending it to others. We want to pursue sake brewing that eliminates those little issues. That is what helps Koshi no Kanbai continue as Koshi no Kanbai, and Ichirin Itteki is filled with that resolve. As the maker, I have lots of my own ideas, but we should set those aside and give the customer space to simply enjoy the sake.
Ichirin IttekiIrregular Limited Release
110th Anniversary Sake
This specially brewed Junmai Daiginjo sake was made to celebrate Ishimoto Sake Brewery's 110th anniversary.
Ichirin IttekiLimited Release
Daiginjo
This is a special sake brewed using all that year's skills based on the Ishimoto Sake Brewery's philosophy of "A blossom of aesthetics in a single drop." It is a limited product sold by drawing in lots of ten bottles a month.
- 720ml
- ¥33,000(Tax incl.)